RANGE NOT AS ADVERTISED

The print, online and media car advertisements state about 87 miles on a "FULL" charge range and UP TO about 111 miles on the super-duper-extra-special-push the little button blue light dealio...well...

On the evening I bought the car new, the dealer sales rep said (I've been charging the car "all day for you" so it's fully charged), and by the time the 4-5 hour (seemingly requisite time it takes to buy a friggin car every-time I buy one!!) it was 9pm and I just wanted dinner and bed.

I noticed the guess-o-meter reported 71 miles range and the charge was at what appeared to be 100% of charge. I figured they didn't actually fully charge it and I figured they for sure didn't do the "overcharge/boost" thingy and I figured it's based on some factory default driving behavior/range with some figured buffer in there to avoid a bunch of B-classes being towed all over...

So, tired, hungry and sick of haggling & sitting around the MB dealer I drove off. (Do they count on exhausting us to the brink of just saying YES, I'll take anything you put in front of me

Drove the 2 miles home the car had a grand total of 9 miles since birth: Plugged the car in on 110 at home and expected to see at least 80 miles by morning...

10 hours later, it said 74 miles!!! That was WITH the E+ mode!

OK, so, I figured, 110 volts is barely more than I can get with a couple D batteries and some aluminum foil so that afternoon I went across the street to an (at the time FREE!!! new charge point charger) supposedly Level II, (later learned that the advertised rate of 6.9 is split between the TWO power cords)....but did I mention it was FREE, so who cares, right?

So, PRESSED THE SUPER DUPER OVERCHARGE button (blue light ON), then plugged it in, walked home and was just SURE the next morning I would have like 110.7 miles to drive to the Panama Canal and back...

Well, nope.

The next morning, even though the "fuel gauge" was at the max but I only had 67 miles, with E+ enabled!!!

Mind you, I'm driving like an EV freak...using as MUCH REGEN as possible and the D- mode 100% of the time and minimal AC use, no jack rabbit starts, coasting (charging) as much as possible, keeping the needle in the economy mode, and STILL under 70 miles!!!!!!

OK, so I figured the new chargepoint charger might not be calibrated or speaking with the hive correctly or the borg queen was charging her cube or something and that's maybe why I was being short changed so I tried SEVERAL other (mostly pay) Level II chargers....

SAME THING, I stated to think the estimated miles didn't even have a 3rd digit since it had never gone past about 80.

So, on the 4th day I took it into the dealer and said, LOOK, I need to average about 100 miles a day or the car is useless, I have to use my BMW 7 series gas guzzler and use the B class as a lawn ornament on my newly installed plastic lawn.

They said nothing is wrong with the car you idiot (ok, I think they skipped the idiot part). I said, tell you what, charge the car to 90 miles range and call me when that happens -at that point I will return your loaner car and get mine.

Magically, after 20 hours+ on their level II chargers - Somehow - they got it up to 91 miles, (not using the overcharge feature) and I was thrilled thinking I must be the idiot.

Since then, I've used a number of chargers, some even expensive PAY charge point chargers for HOURS and even 10-12 hours a couple times on these allegedly level II chargers, NEVER got the car above 80, even under E+ mode... (I read someone said the E+ might be going away in a firmware update??? Is this true? OMG, that would be terrible since I can't even use the car as it is much less with fewer miles range!

I don't know what to do!!

60-70 miles avg per day on a 7-10 hour charge will not work for me....

HELP!!!!

PS: I am (of course!!) now ready to get higher level charging at home...I've got a dryer plug never in use that is 3 pole/3 wire, 10-30R that's about 20-35 feet from where I park the car. Can I be a cheapo and skip the $ 1000, $ 2000 or $ 3000 option (i'm just renting) and get some gizmo that magically turns those electrons in the dryer plug into excited little dudes that jump into my car's battery and give me some juice.

PSS: Has anyone figured out a way to tow a nice 220 vlt gas generator (I have one, that runs for about 5 hours on a full tank of gas), that could somehow charge the car in motion and allow long range trips to go a few hundred miles (with a number of 5-10 gallon gas fill ups on the way

PSSS: How about one of the nifty new Tesla home batteries that could easily fit the in the oversized rear storage bay of the B class and run a cord to the port to charge for those times you just MUST go skiing or to Palm Springs or gasp! Las Vegas!!?

(I guess I can just take the 7 series, but I really do LOVE the benz!)

I drive in Belgium with the B electric drive, it becoms more economic after a while.
I have it for 3 months now (2700 km).
I can get 206 km on a normal charge (more then advertised).
Use the tempomat a much as possible and drive so
Economical as possible

The B-Class ED in the summer does 3.8 mpkWh, accounting for the 1.2x correction factor between the dashboard display (wall to wheels) and the actual "battery to wheels" figure on other cars.
That's with AC ON with fan speed on 3 (Freezing cold AC!),

100 mile range regular charge, 112 mile range extended range charge.

Take off 25% range from the above figures in the freezing cold.

Judge the car range by how far it actually drives, and be mindful of the remaining SOC (State of Charge), you will notice that the Range "Meter" is typically 10-20 miles off from how far you can actually drive the car.

Ignore the Range meter, pay attention to the mpkWh meter. (It is accurate after about 20 miles driven)

## mpkWh x 1.2 x 28 kW = range on a standard charge

## mpkWh x 1.2 x 31.5 kW = range on an extended charge

I understand that the range meter is inaccurate, however, on a couple recent longish trips I ran out of juice (down to 2 miles remaining) and kind of panicked.

Is the thought that even with the range showing 2,1, or even I guess "0" miles one can ignore that and expect an additional 20-30 miles (Which is what would make it closer to the advertised range on a "full" charge)..?

Seems to me like the meter would get more and more precise the lower the battery remaining and if it say's two miles, you don't really have 23 remaining.

Yesterday, I started out with 83 miles reportedly available. (100% charged on Level II, several hours, with Boost charge and E+ and D- all enabled)

Drove soooooo super eco careful (whatever that word is I forget), minimal A/C, in 70 degree weather, no hills, no racing, etc... and after 81 miles it said 2 miles remaining.

I reset the range estimator a couple times mid-drive, same basic reading after a minute or two each time...

Like I said, LOVE the car, but the range limitation is killing it's practicality for me.

ALL ideas and feedback are sincerely appreciated!!

zipzapzoom said:

I understand that the range meter is inaccurate, however, on a couple recent longish trips I ran out of juice (down to 2 miles remaining) and kind of panicked.

Is the thought that even with the range showing 2,1, or even I guess "0" miles one can ignore that and expect an additional 20-30 miles (Which is what would make it closer to the advertised range on a "full" charge)..?

Seems to me like the meter would get more and more precise the lower the battery remaining and if it say's two miles, you don't really have 23 remaining.

Yesterday, I started out with 83 miles reportedly available. (100% charged on Level II, several hours, with Boost charge and E+ and D- all enabled)

Drove soooooo super eco careful (whatever that word is I forget), minimal A/C, in 70 degree weather, no hills, no racing, etc... and after 81 miles it said 2 miles remaining.

I reset the range estimator a couple times mid-drive, same basic reading after a minute or two each time...

Like I said, LOVE the car, but the range limitation is killing it's practicality for me.

ALL ideas and feedback are sincerely appreciated!!

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Not sure what to say. I have driven >100mi several times, including once with AC and 2 passengers and luggage. I do use the range extender in most of those situations b/c I didn't know how far I was going to drive, but I have driven 95mi, mostly on the Hwy ~65mph, without using the range extender button.

I am an experienced Hybrid/EV driver and do coast instead of using the brakes and regularly get better mileage than my wife. However I always drive >5mph over the speed limit and tend to jackrabbit up to speed after traffic lights, so I am no hyper-miler.

What is power consumption says?
My average is 3kWh/mile
You can turn Vehicle Power Flow display and see % charge of battery. Try to match to odometer readings
If you spending 1% per mile -good. If 2% - something strange is going on.

Some tips:
I have found that D+ is most effective. I am driving in S mode
When I am driving 35-40mph, reported consumption is 3.5+kWh/mile
When I am driving 70+mph, reported consumption is below ~2.3kWh/mile

Heck and I thought I was the one giving Lewis Black a run for his money

I drive like an asshole and I can get 95 miles NorCal commute traffic out of it. I drive always in D-/S, since E/E+/S has no impact on range whatsoever, it's just a throttle mapping, and S is the closest to linear mapping (like a Tesla / Focus are).

Three things kill your range: Braking (disc braking, that is - D- helps with staying in the regen range), absolute speed, and temperature (both hot and cold). If you stay out of brakes, keep the heater off (AC is actually not nearly as bad), and keep it below 70, you'll get over 90 easy. Even sharp acceleration - as long as it's not followed by braking - is quite alright, as my driving proves. Driving single-pedal in D- is not only comfortable but also ensures great range. Today I enjoyed the full distance of Hw 85 in both directions and I got home with half a tank to spare (for the uninitiated, that's about 50 miles round trip). And for the initiated, you will understand how the full length of 85 will turn just about anyone into Lewis Black, esp. without carpool stickers: three months in and still sticker-less, but that's a story for another time.

As for charging - looks like your dealer got a 7kW charger. Get a 10kW charger and then the full charge - zero to full - will happen in less than 4h. My normal commute charge takes about 2h.

My driving style is to never touch the brake pedal unless I really have to...

I learned a long time ago, when you're braking you're not in control of the vehicle.

I use plan-ahead driving, anticipation and the D- downshift effect (plus the added drag when you let off the "gas") to slow whenever possible...

zipzapzoom said:

I learned a long time ago, when you're braking you're not in control of the vehicle.

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Tell that to all the F1 drivers out there

You seem to be complaining about the GOM and not actual range autonomy of the vehicle.

For the GOM to mean anything, you must reset all the consumption rate data on the center dash. Use the up and down buttons on the steering wheel.

When you reset everything, the GOM will read (plus or minus a mile or two):

31.5kWh "extended" charge - 94 miles
28.0kWh "normal" charge - 87 miles

NOTE: YOU MUST RESET THE METER TO GET THESE VALUES. The reset is done with the left steering wheel buttons. Scroll to the reset page with the up and down arrows, and follow the instructions to reset. Press the center button in the left hand side of the steering wheel when on the reset page and it will prompt you to reset, Yes or No.

Make sure you reset the correct page, because two of them look similar... one is for reset and the other is limited to reset since start. It is only necessary to reset if you want the GOM to show 86/88 miles for a normal charge, or 93/95 miles for an extended charge. The battery % will show 100% at BOTH charge levels.

THIS IS THE ABSOLUTE ONLY WAY TO TELL IF THE VEHCILE FULLY EXTENDED CHARGED!!!

When the battery is cold, the GOM will be significantly less. Also, in the future when battery degradation becomes noticeable, the values should be somewhat less. Sorry, I can only guess at those values.

The Mercedes dash consumption meter (miles per kWh) is calibrated so that 3.6 miles per kWh will show 3.0 on the dash. The correction factor is 83.7%, or 1.2.

The B-Class ED has a usable battery capacity of 28kWh in normal charge and 31.5kWh in extended charge.

To estimate ACTUAL range (not the GOM) you only need to charge it up and estimate the consumption rate. At 65mph on flat, dry roads without a headwind and no heater use, the car will consume 3.0 FROM START as indicated on the dash REGARDLESS OF WHAT THE GOM SAYS. Again, the only viable purpose of the GOM after a consumption meter reset is to indicate whether you have 28kWh or 31.5kWh with a full charge when the battery percent shows "100%".

3.0 miles/kWh dash value x 1.2 correction x 28 kWh = 100 mile real RANGE on a standard charge (GOM will show 86-88 miles after reset to indicate 28kWh).

3.0 miles/kWh dash value x 1.2 correction x 31.5 kWh = 113 mile range on an extended charge (GOM will show 93-95 miles after reset to indicate 31.5kWh - some 2014 model year cars do not have this extended charge feature)

If you're weather conditions are worse than dry / warm / no wind / no elevation climb, or you're running the heater, or driving faster, the consumption rate that you experience will be lower, maybe 2.5 miles/kWh? You will have to determine this through careful experience of the "miles/kWh since start" and a simple math exercise outlined above.

Because the battery will also show in %, you can multiply that percent by 28kWh to estimate available kWh. Let's say it say 50%, which would be 14kWh. Therefore:

3.0 miles/kWh dash value x 1.2 correction x 14kWh = 50 mile range at 50% and 65mph down a flat, dry road without a heater.

Unfortunately, this trick doesn't add the additional miles for "extended" charge, since the meter will just show 100% from 28kWh stored to 31.5kWh. Yes, that seems dumb, except that as the battery ages and degrades, somewhere around 70% to 85% capacity (we don't know yet), the extended and normal charge will have the same kWh.

That's how they will attempt to hide the degradation over time. Not something to worry about with new-ish cars.

This GOM issue pops up OVER AND OVER, so I will just keep posting this same response. We had it with the LEAF and the Toyota RAV4 EV. Thankfully, Tesla uses "rated range", instead of a GOM, like everybody else.

As several other users have reported I too get about 1 mile per percent charge! The GOM is a huge understatement. We took our first long drive today. 89 mile round trip. We returned home with 15% charge. Here are all the details of how our car is performing:

Miles driven since last charge 89 (full charge)
Amount of charge left 15% plus 100%E-Cell
Car calculated Economy 3.4 mpkh
GOM estimated miles left 12
Average speed driven 26mph

Charging profile
3:54h to full charge from 15%
Amount of electricity needed 28.8 kWh total to recharge 100%
Cost per hr of charging $1.656
Calculated recharge economy 3.125kwh/m
Cost to drive 89 miles $6.60. cost per mile $0.074

juliuslee80 said:

zipzapzoom said:

Mind you, I'm driving like an EV freak...using as MUCH REGEN as possible and the D- mode 100% of the time and minimal AC use, no jack rabbit starts, coasting (charging) as much as possible, keeping the needle in the economy mode, and STILL under 70 miles!!!!!!

Click to expand...

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Hi zipzapzoom,
I have been following this forum since late Sep 2014 before I bought a 2014 model and people here share lots of info and really helped me out so I think it's my turn to share my two cents.

Before buying my B-Class, my only electric car experience was test driving a Model-S for about 15 min at a Model S experience event. I had no clue about how electric motor reacts to different driving habits, so I was as confused as you are in the first a couple of weeks after getting my B-class. Eventually I believe I kind of figured out how this car's range predicting algorithm works.

The most obvious thing to me was, this car's range predicting algorithm seems to calculate the next charge's range based on the current Miles per kWh (mpkWh) score. Like one of our good fellow owners had mentioned, we should pay attention to the mpkWh score on the dash. Thanks to the decent torque, I usually drive like a maniac but I noticed that if i managed to slow down and get a 3.3 mpkWh score the previous day, after the overnight regular charging ( I haven't tried pushing the full charge button yet), the next morning i could get a range prediction of 84 miles. I reset the mpkWh score everytime before plugging the car in. If I just jack rabbit around and speed at 78~80 mph on highways my mpKWh score drops to 2.0 mpkWh and i see only 56 miles or so on the range meter after a regular charge. Intentionally I haven't hit the button to fully charge my car because I purchased this car and don't want the Li-ion battery to deteriorate too soon due to frequent full charges. Full charges or depletion on Li-ion batteries is really harmful to the life span. Try to keep the juice level between 10% and 90%, and this is why Mercedes warns the owners about not to push the button to fully charge the battery too often; and also, I believe the software hides up the last drop of juice that is always reserved in the battery to prevent it from being completely depleted.

In my 3 weeks long experience, I always switched out of DAuto to D+ and stayed with D+ as much as possible and only kicked down to D or D- when I had to decelerate in the circumstance of approaching a stop sign or when I was too close to the car in front of me, because I am pretty sure when an electric car recuperates, it can never recycle 100% of the kinetic energy from the spinning wheels. Whenever it regens/recups, the D- or D resistance is also increasing the friction between the tires and road surface, so some kinetic energy goes wasted on the friction. In addition to the loss caused by the friction, another loss to consider is the energy transformation loss. The regen/recup system transforms the kinetic energy from the front wheels into electricity, and then before this amount of energy can be stored in the battery, this amount of energy is again transformed into chemical energy. There is definitely some loss in these 2 transformations but I don't know how bad the losses are though.

The last factor I have noticed is terrain. The instantaneous mpkWh meter shows only 1.9 mpkWh when I drove up a hill of about 15~20 deg (just my guess) of gradient at a cruise controlled speed of 65 mph. It makes sense that the AC motor needs to spend more energy to go uphills, but somehow i feel the additional energy isn't just to cover the gravitational potential energy. Some energy seems wasted somewhere when the car goes uphills at higher speeds. Maybe someone can look into the AC motor's torque chart to validate my guess.

I could not do anything about terrain, but as for driving behaviors, I tried to look ahead and tried my best to avoid regen or caliper braking when the condition allowed (please still use your caliper brakes whenever you need to, safety always overrides everything else). I just let the car run fly wheel down the hill when the traffic condition allowed. Even when I had to regen, I started with D mode first before kicking down to D-, because my strategy is to avoid regen as much as possible so if D is enough to slow me down, i didn't wanna get down to the bottom. I ended up with switching among D+, D, and D- so frequently. I found the shifting paddle behind the steering wheel too small so I installed a pair of shifting paddle extenders so I can flip the paddles easier. The extenders are available online for about $70 a pair, but remember to look for the one specifically made to fit Mercedes' paddles. They are made of good quality metal and can make the steering wheel more sporty.

I also avoided accelerating too harsh or flooring down. All AC motors in the market today become way less energy efficient when its revving up aggressively. I avoided switching to the red S mode, because S mode allows the driver to rev up the AC motor more aggressively (you mentioned E+ mode? I guess that's something new on your 2015 model? My 2014 model has only the green E and red S modes).

I tried not to exceed 70 mph on highways. The reason being is no electric car today has multiple transmission gears to handle higher speeds. AC motors are capable of handling high RPMs, only at the cost of wasting a lot of energy. Don't think it's the same to cruise control at 75 mph in a Subaru WRX and in an electric car, because all the electric cars in the market, including this lovely B-Class, has only single speed transmission. Just imagine how bad the gas MPG would become if a Subaru is stuck in the 3rd gear while running at 75 mph.

As for charging, I don't think Level-1 charging has anything to do with the range. Level-1 is just slow but can always juice the battery up.

Hope my story can be some help for you guys. Drop me a message if you have questions.

Lukeetal said:

2014 B class, Univerals Blue, 3 car seats.

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I think that should say "Universe Blue"

UPDATE: I've continued to have trouble getting the car to take enough of a charge to be useful for my range needs.

Here's the email to the service department, which recaps fairly well the facts...

One month ago I brought my 3 day old B class in, complaining about battery issues

A few days and emails later, you reported the car FINALLY showed a reported range of 94 miles after what I estimate to be about 36+ hours on (what I assume) is a level II charger there at XYZ Mercedes Benz....

For the record, my destination after the dealership, was less than 6 miles away.

By the time I got there, driving with hypermilling behavior, the cars range was all the way down to 72!!

Later that same day, a 2 mile round trip returned me with 51 miles reported range remaining.

To test between the battery failure or the estimating system/range reporting software, I then drove the car 24 miles to a new destination and then back the same - again being hyper careful to maximize range.

I returned after these 58 miles with just 6 reported miles remaining!!

I then charged the car, as usual, on its level II charger. And for testing, initiated the "overcharge" setting on the selector button.

After 6+ hours of charging the car's range was 64 miles!

Since that time, for this entire month, I have taken the car to numerous charging stations with varying degrees of levels and kWh - many of them pay services.

I have NEVER EVER EVER gotten the car to report a range above 75!!

This is with or without the overcharge feature enabled.

This is a with driving regen mode D-, and using E+ mode on the dash.

Each time the gauges measuring both capacity and battery health are at the absolute MAX position.

To test the reporting system of its accuracy of range estimation I've driven the car to the point of complete power failure twice. Each time was completely consistent with the estimated range, within an error of + or - 2 miles.

I absolutely love this car.

In fact, at least 6-10 people a week come up to me and ask me about it.

There is something wrong with the range!!

It's likely one of the following;

1) a design flaw
2) false marketing (over promised range and under deliver)
3) defective charging or battery system in MY car
4) some kind of operator error.
5) defective charging stations

Assuming #4 was the most likely and easiest to rule out I've now invested countless hours of testing and retesting and researching and testing and testing and I'm exhausted.

I've spent over an entire month ruling out all possibilities that I am doing something wrong.

I've also varied the charging stations - brands, kWh, locations, times, costs, etc etc to rule out #5 without question.

.....

Bottom line, no matter how, when or at what level, or for how long I charge, with or without the "overboost" enabled - the MOST I can get for range is 60-65 miles, as reported by the estimated range indicator (after resetting it every time), and in real life, I can MAYBE get about 70 miles TOTAL drive range, using massive driving behavior adjustments to maximize range, but never over 100!

The battery shows MAX,but I can't get over 70 miles no matter what.

I don't know what to do!

As always, all feedback, opinions and ideas are appreciated!

Sorry, but do you have trouble reading? Everyone told you the GOM is not accurate, use the % to gauge what your true range is. You keep referring to the GOM..... :?: :?: :?: :?:

Amen cossie1600! I've been driving electric for three years (my first EV was a Volt). The GOM is a joke on ALL EV's. After one month of B class ownership, I'm learning that the battery percentage gauge is my best gauge of range.

Zipzapzoom, what kind of driving were you doing on the trip for 58 miles? Highway? High speed 65mph or higher? Reset the GOM and then forget about it until the battery is down to the last 10%. If you do not normally drive 60+ miles or more more do not charge it every night and see how far you can go with a 100% charge before recharging.

LALarry said:

Amen cossie1600! I've been driving electric for three years (my first EV was a Volt). The GOM is a joke on ALL EV's. After one month of B class ownership, I'm learning that the battery percentage gauge is my best gauge of range.

Click to expand...

I have found the meter in the Electric Focus to be very accurate.

ZZZ,

Divide your mileage by percent of juice used to estimate your actual range. The GOM isn't useful but strange that it won't go over 65 even with reset of your unit before charging. Stop and go driving will limit range. I use mine in NYC and I get 60+ in the summer but only 30+ in the winter.

Good luck.

zipzapzoom said:

UPDATE: I've continued to have trouble getting the car to take enough of a charge to be useful for my range needs.

Here's the email to the service department, which recaps fairly well the facts...

One month ago I brought my 3 day old B class in, complaining about battery issues

A few days and emails later, you reported the car FINALLY showed a reported range of 94 miles after what I estimate to be about 36+ hours on (what I assume) is a level II charger there at XYZ Mercedes Benz....

For the record, my destination after the dealership, was less than 6 miles away.

By the time I got there, driving with hypermilling behavior, the cars range was all the way down to 72!!

Later that same day, a 2 mile round trip returned me with 51 miles reported range remaining.

To test between the battery failure or the estimating system/range reporting software, I then drove the car 24 miles to a new destination and then back the same - again being hyper careful to maximize range.

I returned after these 58 miles with just 6 reported miles remaining!!

I then charged the car, as usual, on its level II charger. And for testing, initiated the "overcharge" setting on the selector button.

After 6+ hours of charging the car's range was 64 miles!

Since that time, for this entire month, I have taken the car to numerous charging stations with varying degrees of levels and kWh - many of them pay services.

I have NEVER EVER EVER gotten the car to report a range above 75!!

This is with or without the overcharge feature enabled.

This is a with driving regen mode D-, and using E+ mode on the dash.

Each time the gauges measuring both capacity and battery health are at the absolute MAX position.

To test the reporting system of its accuracy of range estimation I've driven the car to the point of complete power failure twice. Each time was completely consistent with the estimated range, within an error of + or - 2 miles.

I absolutely love this car.

In fact, at least 6-10 people a week come up to me and ask me about it.

There is something wrong with the range!!

It's likely one of the following;

1) a design flaw
2) false marketing (over promised range and under deliver)
3) defective charging or battery system in MY car
4) some kind of operator error.
5) defective charging stations

Assuming #4 was the most likely and easiest to rule out I've now invested countless hours of testing and retesting and researching and testing and testing and I'm exhausted.

I've spent over an entire month ruling out all possibilities that I am doing something wrong.

I've also varied the charging stations - brands, kWh, locations, times, costs, etc etc to rule out #5 without question.

.....

Bottom line, no matter how, when or at what level, or for how long I charge, with or without the "overboost" enabled - the MOST I can get for range is 60-65 miles, as reported by the estimated range indicator (after resetting it every time), and in real life, I can MAYBE get about 70 miles TOTAL drive range, using massive driving behavior adjustments to maximize range, but never over 100!

The battery shows MAX,but I can't get over 70 miles no matter what.

I don't know what to do!

As always, all feedback, opinions and ideas are appreciated!

Click to expand...

My GOM meter has never shown over 70 miles that I can remember. I regularly do 100+ mile round trips. I use the % battery meter to gauge range. Just making sure I am running about 1% a mile if I am planning a 100 mile round trip.