Malfunction go to workshop

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Thank.you so.much but I do not understand,car is starting even I start after a week, I went to MD they said your motor is bad but when I got back the car that message is gone ,I drove the car 80 miles during that message and now message is disappear, a humming sound coming upto 30 mph but when I over 30 miles per hour ,car is running fine.
Should I drive the car or not??
 
The yellow/amber "Malfunction, visit workshop" error message is very common but it usually is not serious. A MB dealer or a specialist with MB diagnostics can clear the error.
I was driving almost 2 years with that error message, I had to click OK every time I started the car. Now I got it cleared, it didn't come back. Mine was triggered by the charger overnight but the car charged and drove like normal.
 
That's helpful but not related to the yellow error message. I like to encourage owners not to think of the worst straight away. :)
That’s exactly what my error message meant. Then a few days later the car wouldn’t start.

I get that you don’t want people to put out thousands of dollars for what could be an unrelated issue. But to claim that every single go to workshop warning is ignorable just because you had one experience where it was cleared is nuts.

You can buy an OBD reader and clear the codes yourself without even visiting a shop. But with the coolant leak and speed sensor error, that warning will come right back, and one day will turn into a red error that says “without starting engine again, consult workshop” (gotta love the ICE-centric terminology in this car that MB couldn’t be bothered to update). Shortly after that, your car may not start again.
 
This message appears ,some one knows to update the software how much MB will charge me I have 3014 b class electric drive 40k miles on it
It is not a software update, if you will go to dealer they will charge you 195 for dignostic and majority of cases they will say your motor become bad ,you have to install a new motor costing 12000 to 15000 ,they don't repair the motor.
However if you want to get rid of this message ,start the car and push the aero button , like U turn icon one time ,it is under the left side of steering and message will go off.every time when you start repeat the same procedure and keep driving.
This function will reset the computer every time.
If you have car manual ,go to page 174 and read .
 
It is not a software update, if you will go to dealer they will charge you 195 for dignostic and majority of cases they will say your motor become bad ,you have to install a new motor costing 12000 to 15000 ,they don't repair the motor.
However if you want to get rid of this message ,start the car and push the aero button , like U turn icon one time ,it is under the left side of steering and message will go off.every time when you start repeat the same procedure and keep driving.
This function will reset the computer every time.
If you have car manual ,go to page 174 and read .
Your car has 40000 miles I am.99% sure your motor goes bad, these motors have manufacturing defect Mae by Tesla and Mercedse knows very well but they are not recalling them whereas Tesla replaced recalled all those motor aeven after the warranty expired.
In some cases MB's motors reported bad at 14000 miles only.
 
However if you want to get rid of this message ,start the car and push the aero button , like U turn icon one time
Note that if you keep doing this eventually the motor will seize and your car will be worthless. My commendation is to trade in or sell to a company (don’t screw a poor individual who would be clueless).
 
That’s exactly what my error message meant. Then a few days later the car wouldn’t start.

I get that you don’t want people to put out thousands of dollars for what could be an unrelated issue. But to claim that every single go to workshop warning is ignorable just because you had one experience where it was cleared is nuts.

You can buy an OBD reader and clear the codes yourself without even visiting a shop. But with the coolant leak and speed sensor error, that warning will come right back, and one day will turn into a red error that says “without starting engine again, consult workshop” (gotta love the ICE-centric terminology in this car that MB couldn’t be bothered to update). Shortly after that, your car may not start again.
Your guess is as good as mine. The yellow error message can NOT be related to motor leak if at the same time there's no sign of moisture on the speed sensor. I'm just tired that for many it's simply "Any error message = Your motor is dead". I'm part of the group on FB too and I've seen many yellow error messages that turned out to be harmless. So it's not just one experience.
Buy the way, I never said the error message is ignorable, check my replies. Yet, it turned out to be ignorable many times.

Please, stop scaring everyone with motor failure because that's not the only error that can happen to this car. I'm sure there are many cars out there with no leak.

And finally, no, a generic OBD reader will not be able to clear error codes from the electric drivetrain. Only a dealer level diagnostic tool can.
 
Your guess is as good as mine. The yellow error message can NOT be related to motor leak if at the same time there's no sign of moisture on the speed sensor. I'm just tired that for many it's simply "Any error message = Your motor is dead". I'm part of the group on FB too and I've seen many yellow error messages that turned out to be harmless. So it's not just one experience.
Buy the way, I never said the error message is ignorable, check my replies. Yet, it turned out to be ignorable many times.

Please, stop scaring everyone with motor failure because that's not the only error that can happen to this car. I'm sure there are many cars out there with no leak.

And finally, no, a generic OBD reader will not be able to clear error codes from the electric drivetrain. Only a dealer level diagnostic tool can.
I 100% agree but just think of it this way..... The dealers Just don't know and just don't care. The just tell you what is most likely to make you go away. They hate the electric drive because it was slapped together so they could sell the gas guzzlers in certain markets. If the tell you the repair is $15,000.00 you car is already worthless. So hit the button and drive. If you ruin the motor it still cost the same, 50/50 chance on way of the other.
 
. . . you car is already worthless. So hit the button and drive. If you ruin the motor it still cost the same, 50/50 chance on way of the other.
If you discover the Blue Drops of Death on the speed sensor after the first IC warning, and you address it promptly (ie have a third-party disassemble the LDU, remove coolant, replace the rotor bearings (and pinion gear bearings, according to jjo), and have the rotor seal replaced -- or, better yet, install a Coolant Delete manifold by one of the several suppliers now making them -- then the LDU can be salvaged/repaired and put back into service for (generally) $6 or less.

If, instead, you drive until it stops moving, the stator windings will have developed such low HV Isolation Resistance ("iso") that they cannot be dried out, and this scraps the LDU for repair. Then there is no choice but to pay for a replacement LDU entirely (USD$15-20k), which scraps the vehicle.

So, no, it doesn't cost the same to keep driving and resetting the IC warning. It costs a great deal more to ignore it and hope it keeps running for a while.
 
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The yellow error message can NOT be related to motor leak if at the same time there's no sign of moisture on the speed sensor.
Sigh. jjo, you sound so confident when you state this. I wish that you'd read around on the Tesla LDU more before making declarative statements like this.

Original info here, where I recently wrote (regarding the similar LDU in the RAV4 EV):

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. . . unless you drive in states that use road "salt" to aid in melting snow; the LDU's HV cables are mounted vertical down orientation, rainwater (snow slush) can collect on the HV cable glands, and they corrode badly in this design. Water will enter the inverter side via this route. We just had a post on this for a Model S yesterday.


1716996862156.png



If you live/drive in an area where "salt" is used to aid in snow control, and if you ever have the LDU out for any reason, grease the bejeezus out of the tops of these cables upon reinstallation. The alternative can be to dry out the inverter side and replace the cables, which are around $605 each (from Toyota) right now.


RAV4EV_DU_Mounts_02-2b.png

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The above shows the Toyota diagram and part numbers, but the problem is the same on the B250e & Model S.

So, it's not true that a dry speed sensor indicates no water in the LDU: water can enter the inverter side via the HV cable glands (and, probably, around the 12-way data connector as well, but I don't recall an instance where that leaked and the HV cable glands didn't already).

Is this a "motor leak"? On the LDU, there's more than one source of water intrusion. The rotor seal leak can be detected by pulling the speed sensor. The HV cable gland(s) leaking rain/snow water into the inverter side cannot. The LDU can be ruined by both kinds of water leaks.
 
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And finally, no, a generic OBD reader will not be able to clear error codes from the electric drivetrain. Only a dealer level diagnostic tool can.
I mean I personally did this. Maybe not any generic one but one that costs around $200? Absolutely.
 
"The yellow error message can NOT be related to motor leak if at the same time there's no sign of moisture on the speed sensor."

I still stand by my statement. My car is passing 107k miles in the coming days. The milling noise was fixed by changing two cheap bearings in the gearbox, without touching the motor. Drove nearly 20k miles since, it's still good.
And I have had the yellow message every time I started the car for nearly 2 years until it got cleared recently. That was 45k miles earlier and my motor still failed to give up.

Again, I understand that - despite following the forum and FB group - I still haven't seen many faults you guys have, yet I think the reputation of this car is much worse than it deserves.
 
And I have had the yellow message every time I started the car for nearly 2 years until it got cleared recently.
If the yellow message isn’t related to the motor, you can take it to a dealer and they can look up the code for $200. I had it happen when the car was in warranty for a charging issue like you did. Waiting for 2 years seems like a terrible idea. You can also buy a reader for the same cost and read and reset the codes yourself.

Doesn’t change the fact that for most people this message is a doom of death. And it has a bad reputation because of how MB handled it. I wanted to keep this car for ten years but couldn’t.
 
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