Is a 2014 B-class really worth only $3,000 ?

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Hi everyone. Curious what your experience is trying to sell a 10-year old B-class.

Today my white 2014 B-class passed 75,000 miles. I used it as my commuter car for 9 years (Sep 2014 to Sep 2023, but not much during COVID). I've recently retired and so I don't really need this car now. BUT the KBB value (which was quoted by my Mercedes dealer as what they would pay as a trade-in) is about $4,600. That surprised me, especially since the car qualifies for a 30% tax credit (so someone paying $5,000 for the car would get a $1,500 tax refund).

The car runs fine. I've replaced desiccant cartridges 7 times, every 10,000 miles. I had to change the starter battery in 2023 at 74,000 miles and in 2017 at 31,000 miles. Otherwise, thankfully, no issues with the car - no bearing replacement at 40,000 like so many unlucky souls. I hate to pay $1,000 a year for insurance on a car I'm not driving, but I don't want to sell a functional Mercedes for $4,000 either. Any thoughts?

Somewhat related topic: does anyone know how to determine how much battery efficiency remains? When new, the car reliably traveled 100 miles on a charge outside of winter cold weather. Currently, the battery delivers 85-90 miles of range.
 
It's worth more than $4000, but that's what it's worth to a dealer to resell. All of the B-classes I see online forsale are going for $9k - $17k (newer and less miles).

I sold my 2014 back in 2021, now I've been looking for another one in the south seas blue I had. I miss driving it.
 
I recently sold my 2015 with roughly 55K miles. KBB is very helpful regarding pricing info, as you’ve noted. Mine had been serviced at my local MB dealership on regular intervals and was in impeccable condition. The problem that I encountered in my area, however, is that it’s not a well known model and, thus, selling it took some time and effort. My local MB wasn’t even interested, but my local Audi dealership was (see below).

Considering the age and mileage of your vehicle, I would take it to CarMax and see what they’ll offer you for it, if you want to sell it right away. Also, some dealerships like my local Audi dealership will actually give you more money (i.e., above the CarMax offer) for the car if you want to trade-in and you have an official CarMax offer, which again you must obtain in person. You could also do a national search on CarMax to see what their inventory is to get a ballpark of what they’re asking for the models they buy, which might be helpful to know. The last time I checked there were several listed in various model years, mileages, and packages.

As for your battery health question, mine was regularly checked during service by a certified MB mechanic and a report was provided indicating the remaining life which I found helpful and reassuring. This is also something that a third-party could have done at presumably any MB dealership as part of a pre-purchase inspection. Aside from that, the reported mileage per charge is roughly 84-87 miles without the extended mileage gained by a range extender. So, it sounds like your battery health is still very good. That said, I would anticipate that any savvy third-party purchaser would make sure that checks out before buying.

There’s also the possibility that you might decide the vehicle is worth more to you than selling it…

Best wishes to you as you move forward.
 
Hi everyone. Curious what your experience is trying to sell a 10-year old B-class.

Today my white 2014 B-class passed 75,000 miles. I used it as my commuter car for 9 years (Sep 2014 to Sep 2023, but not much during COVID). I've recently retired and so I don't really need this car now. BUT the KBB value (which was quoted by my Mercedes dealer as what they would pay as a trade-in) is about $4,600. That surprised me, especially since the car qualifies for a 30% tax credit (so someone paying $5,000 for the car would get a $1,500 tax refund).

The car runs fine. I've replaced desiccant cartridges 7 times, every 10,000 miles. I had to change the starter battery in 2023 at 74,000 miles and in 2017 at 31,000 miles. Otherwise, thankfully, no issues with the car - no bearing replacement at 40,000 like so many unlucky souls. I hate to pay $1,000 a year for insurance on a car I'm not driving, but I don't want to sell a functional Mercedes for $4,000 either. Any thoughts?

Somewhat related topic: does anyone know how to determine how much battery efficiency remains? When new, the car reliably traveled 100 miles on a charge outside of winter cold weather. Currently, the battery delivers 85-90 miles of range.
Hi
You are Lucy not to have any problem with EV motor ,however if your E.cell charging 100% then your EV battery should work further 10 years ,so no worries about it,try to sell and get rid of it before it's motor dies.
 
Hi everyone. Curious what your experience is trying to sell a 10-year old B-class.

Today my white 2014 B-class passed 75,000 miles. I used it as my commuter car for 9 years (Sep 2014 to Sep 2023, but not much during COVID). I've recently retired and so I don't really need this car now. BUT the KBB value (which was quoted by my Mercedes dealer as what they would pay as a trade-in) is about $4,600. That surprised me, especially since the car qualifies for a 30% tax credit (so someone paying $5,000 for the car would get a $1,500 tax refund).

The car runs fine. I've replaced desiccant cartridges 7 times, every 10,000 miles. I had to change the starter battery in 2023 at 74,000 miles and in 2017 at 31,000 miles. Otherwise, thankfully, no issues with the car - no bearing replacement at 40,000 like so many unlucky souls. I hate to pay $1,000 a year for insurance on a car I'm not driving, but I don't want to sell a functional Mercedes for $4,000 either. Any thoughts?

Somewhat related topic: does anyone know how to determine how much battery efficiency remains? When new, the car reliably traveled 100 miles on a charge outside of winter cold weather. Currently, the battery delivers 85-90 miles of range.

I've just sold mine privately in Europe, for the equivalent of $8100 (which was about 50% higher than the available online "cash for cars" type of offers such as CarMax in the US). It was a 2015 model (first registered in 2016) with 107k miles, which is probably amongst the highest milage examples. There are very few available for sale here and people don't know much about this car and that Mercedes-Benz made a fully electric B-Class.

I still got the same range out of the car as when I bought it at 55k miles (85 miles on average) but the range extender button didn't do much by now, only adding an extra 1kWh or less. Mind you, it's around 10-15C here for most of the year, colder for winter and not much warmer at summer so the battery heating kicks in every time I start the car from cold.

Unfortunately the sentiment is against EVs at the moment with new sales slowing and used prices plummeting. It's not the question of how much you are going to get for it, more like will you get a buyer at all?
I decided to give it to the first buyer who gave me a reasonable offer and offers were few and far between. I loved the car a lot, but will use this money to collect for a next generation used EV with bigger battery. It's a great opportunity to buy second hand as prices are low.

I hope it helps.
 
I just bought a 2014 B-class electric drive with 15,000 miles on it for $8,000 and everyone thinks I got a bargain. The car is pristine and shows 87-100 miles range on start up. I am about to get an electrician to make me a 220 volt charging station for the house to charge the car. Does hte 2014 take a modern charge?
 
It will take any J1772 compatible charger up to 10 kW. One of the fastest charging cars made due to its tesla heritage.

Make sure to get the coolant delete so that your motor doesn’t need a $15k replacement in a few years.
 
And, the US hasn't had 220v since around the 1930s; it's 240v split-phase supply for residential.

---

Does the B250e's onboard charger ("OBC") suffer from random GEN1 AC input fuse failures, as do the Model S and RAV4 EV? Or, does the B250e use the GEN2 OBC? If anyone has a picture of the OBC, I can ID it as the GEN1 and GEN2 look very different (I wrote a Wiki on the GEN1 OBC).
 
You need a 50 amp circuit (USA, this is two 120VAC circuits) that is only used at 40 amps (in the USA circuits max out at 80% of rating), controlled by the battery controller in the car. This is the max the car can charge. This is about 11+ miles of charge per hour to start and then trickeling down.

After nine year of happily owning my B-electric, I am giving it to my son and should take delivery of a new Tesla Model Y in a week or so. My wife and I want to travel more and the Tesla will accommodate those desires.

Always remember Form Follows Function.
 
At 10 kw the car charges to full in 4.5 hours. Its rated range is about 80 miles (though I’ve gotten 100) so it’s definitely more than 11 miles an hour.
 
Hi everyone. Curious what your experience is trying to sell a 10-year old B-class.

Today my white 2014 B-class passed 75,000 miles. I used it as my commuter car for 9 years (Sep 2014 to Sep 2023, but not much during COVID). I've recently retired and so I don't really need this car now. BUT the KBB value (which was quoted by my Mercedes dealer as what they would pay as a trade-in) is about $4,600. That surprised me, especially since the car qualifies for a 30% tax credit (so someone paying $5,000 for the car would get a $1,500 tax refund).

The car runs fine. I've replaced desiccant cartridges 7 times, every 10,000 miles. I had to change the starter battery in 2023 at 74,000 miles and in 2017 at 31,000 miles. Otherwise, thankfully, no issues with the car - no bearing replacement at 40,000 like so many unlucky souls. I hate to pay $1,000 a year for insurance on a car I'm not driving, but I don't want to sell a functional Mercedes for $4,000 either. Any thoughts?

Somewhat related topic: does anyone know how to determine how much battery efficiency remains? When new, the car reliably traveled 100 miles on a charge outside of winter cold weather. Currently, the battery delivers 85-90 miles of range.
I am a new buyer of a 2014 B-Class Electric drive Mercedes. Mine came with 15,000 miles on it in pristine condition. The price advertised was $8,000 and then a "dealer fee" (Hahahah) of $2,000 plus other stuff - Total came to $11,000. We all thought it was a bargain. It will be used as a commuter car going 20 miles each way to work.. No other agenda for it. Hence it is perfect.
 
I'm in the process selling off my 2014 MB B class with 50700 miles on it. Just need to empty my garage for Cybertruck.

Can work with buyers to get the used EV credit. You are most likely looking at $8000 + shipping from Seattle area. Contact me at [email protected] for details.
 
Hi everyone. Curious what your experience is trying to sell a 10-year old B-class.

Today my white 2014 B-class passed 75,000 miles. I used it as my commuter car for 9 years (Sep 2014 to Sep 2023, but not much during COVID). I've recently retired and so I don't really need this car now. BUT the KBB value (which was quoted by my Mercedes dealer as what they would pay as a trade-in) is about $4,600. That surprised me, especially since the car qualifies for a 30% tax credit (so someone paying $5,000 for the car would get a $1,500 tax refund).

The car runs fine. I've replaced desiccant cartridges 7 times, every 10,000 miles. I had to change the starter battery in 2023 at 74,000 miles and in 2017 at 31,000 miles. Otherwise, thankfully, no issues with the car - no bearing replacement at 40,000 like so many unlucky souls. I hate to pay $1,000 a year for insurance on a car I'm not driving, but I don't want to sell a functional Mercedes for $4,000 either. Any thoughts?

Somewhat related topic: does anyone know how to determine how much battery efficiency remains? When new, the car reliably traveled 100 miles on a charge outside of winter cold weather. Currently, the battery delivers 85-90 miles of range.
You will be very lucky if someone give you 3k having 75000 miles on it,this car is the pain for 99% owner.my suggestion to get rid as soon as possible
 
It will take any J1772 compatible charger up to 10 kW. One of the fastest charging cars made due to its tesla heritage.

Make sure to get the coolant delete so that your motor doesn’t need a $15k replacement in a few years.
What do mean by "get the coolant delete" I have a 2016 that I bought in 2019 with 8k miles, I'm now on 35k.
 
The "coolant delete" process eliminates liquid cooling of the rotor. It also eliminates the troublesome rotor seal, the cause of most of the most-expensive LDU failures. Telsa is now supplying Reman LDUs with their own coolant delete solution . . . but you can't buy their part to convert yours -- Tesla doesn't sell parts -- so several people and firms have stepped in and supply a replacement coolant manifold that does the job.

IDK about the B250e, but on the RAV4 EV (which uses substantially the same LDU as the MB) the coolant manifold can be replaced in your driveway in 90 minutes, via the RF fenderwell. I've done it on mine, though I did mine before anybody was selling a replacement manifold, so that thread shows a bunch of machining and pressure testing that no longer need to be done -- the development work is finished.

(On the Model S/X, it's a much longer process, because the entire rear subframe has to be removed, then the LDU lifted from that subframe, in order to access/remove the manifold. But there's also an in-frame procedure that makes that unnecessary, with a trade-off.)

QCC's replacement manifold is likely the prettiest, but it's also the most expensive; there are others that are functionally nearly the same for less $$$. There is some controversy about the "flyover tube", if you want to do some research, with QCC and DIY (home "machining") options retaining the flyover tube's function, and most of the other solutions plugging it off.
 

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